IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night

Launched at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024, IWC Schaffhausen’s Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night is an exquisite model that showcases an 18-carat Armor Gold case paired with an Obsidian lacquered dial and enhanced by gold-plated hands and appliques. A notable feature is the flying minute tourbillon, positioned at 6 o’clock, which is composed of 56 parts and weighs a mere 0.675 grams.

Adding to its allure, the watch includes an innovative day and night display that illustrates the continuous transition between day and night using a small rotating sphere. This globe-shaped indicator is visible from both the dial and the movement side, adding depth and interest to the watch’s design. The internal mechanics, powered by the hand-wound IWC-manufactured 81925 calibre with gold-plated components, are visible through the sapphire glass case back.

The Portugieser collection is celebrated for its clean, timeless aesthetics and stands as a showcase of IWC Schaffhausen’s extensive watchmaking expertise. Over the years, this collection has featured numerous sophisticated models, including various perpetual calendars and tourbillons, culminating in the Portugieser Sidérale Scafusia, the most complex creation by IWC Schaffhausen to date.

The latest addition, the Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night (Ref. IW545901), features a polished and brushed case made from 18-carat Armor Gold, a material noted for its enhanced hardness and wear resistance compared to traditional 5N gold. The watch’s Obsidian black, highly polished dial offers a striking contrast, complemented by a meticulously crafted curved black alligator leather strap produced by Santoni, a renowned Italian luxury leather goods manufacturer.

The flying minute tourbillon, a complex feature requiring precise assembly and tuning by IWC’s most skilled master watchmakers, includes a balance wheel and pallet lever encased in a rotating cage that mitigates the effects of gravity on the watch’s oscillating system to improve accuracy. This cage undergoes rapid stopping and starting, necessitating minimal weight despite its 56-part composition. The use of silicon for the pallet lever and escape wheel, along with a diamond coating technology called Diamond Shell, decreases friction and enhances energy efficiency, contributing to the impressive 84-hour power reserve. The tourbillon also includes a stop mechanism that allows for precise time setting to the second.

A standout feature at 9 o’clock is the 24-hour globe indicator, which rotates every 24 hours, depicting the day and night cycle with its dark and bright sides. This inventive display was developed by Loris Spitzer, a former watchmaker trainee, highlighting the effectiveness of IWC’s training program and its commitment to fostering a culture of curiosity and innovation. The day and night indicator is part of the IWC-manufactured 81925 calibre, which is hand-wound and lacks an oscillating mass, making the globe visible from both the front and back of the watch. The gold-plated base plate of the movement is partially skeletonized to reveal the barrel and other components, and the entire assembly is finished with circular Geneva stripes, all observable through the sapphire glass case back.