Patek Philippe Nautilus Flyback Chronograph

The Denim-Toned Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph 5980G has recently enhanced its lineup, adopting a casual denim appeal in its latest iteration. This year, Patek Philippe has embraced a denim trend, notably introducing blue jean hues into the dials and straps of several new models, including the Worldtime with Date and Aquanaut Travel Time. Following the earlier discontinuation of the highly coveted Nautilus Flyback Chronograph 5980, Patek Philippe has delighted collectors by launching a white gold version, the Nautilus Chronograph 5980G, which features a denim-textured strap and a matching denim-coloured dial.

First introduced in 1976, the Nautilus has become a cornerstone in the pantheon of luxury sports watches, celebrated for its design by Gerald Genta. In 2006, marking the 30th anniversary of this iconic design, Patek Philippe enhanced the Nautilus with its own in-house chronograph complication, the reference 5980/1A.

The Nautilus Chronograph is renowned for its user-friendly, legible, and compact approach to complications. It is distinguished by its single sub-dial at 6 o’clock, which includes concentric scales for 60-minute and 12-hour chronograph indications, a design that optimizes readability and maintains a sleek profile.

The 2024 Nautilus 5980G features a captivating opaline blue-grey dial that complements the white gold case exquisitely. This model maintains the Nautilus signature horizontal embossed pattern on the dial, and the monocounter at 6 o’clock echoes the dial’s colour, featuring a snailed design with white markings to track elapsed chronograph times. Additionally, it includes rounded baton-style hands coated with white luminescent material, a framed date window at 3 o’clock, a precision white minutes/seconds track around the periphery, and applied white gold hour markers also enhanced with luminescent material for better visibility.

The case of the Nautilus Chronograph, measuring 40.5mm in diameter and 12.2mm in thickness, is crafted from white gold and boasts water resistance up to 30 meters. It displays a blend of vertical satin-brushed and polished finishes that highlight its intricate, asymmetrical geometry. Notable features include the signature Nautilus ears, octagonal bezel, and chronograph pushers, with the absence of an integrated bracelet accentuating the unique lug attachments. The chronograph is activated by a pusher at 2 o’clock to start and stop, while another at 4 o’clock controls the flyback function.

This model is equipped with the calibre CH 28-520 C/522, an integrated automatic flyback chronograph movement developed in-house. It features a 21k gold central rotor, a Breguet balance spring, a Gyromax balance that operates at 4Hz, and a power reserve ranging between 45 and 55 hours.

The Nautilus Chronograph’s standout feature is its casual, denim-patterned calfskin strap equipped with a white gold Nautilus fold-over clasp, offering a stylish denim-on-denim aesthetic. For those who might find the denim look overwhelming, the watch also comes with an additional blue-grey composite strap, providing versatility and a slightly toned-down option.