De Bethune DB28XS Purple Rain

Denis Flageollet, the founder of De Bethune, could also be regarded as a master alchemist, especially when he delves into the art of thermal oxidation in his L’Auberson workshop that intriguingly includes a blacksmith’s forge. Here, Flageollet harnesses the intense heat to transform the surface properties of metals, notably titanium, into a myriad of stunning, natural colours. His latest achievement is an entrancing shade of purple dubbed Purple Rain, paying homage to Prince’s iconic song. This new colour now graces the DB28XS, a renowned model from De Bethune, presented in a more compact 39mm case.

Traditionally, the process of altering metal surfaces through heating, known as thermal oxidation, was applied to steel and iron. However, Flageollet has adapted this technique for titanium. The process draws out an array of psychedelic colours from the metal and also applies a durable protective coating on its surface. Flageollet’s initial forays into this technique were aimed at stabilizing a titanium balance wheel using the same heat treatment traditionally reserved for steel. The titanium, fired at temperatures above 700ºC, stabilized and took on a rich, intense blue hue that has become a hallmark of De Bethune’s timepieces.

Describing the case and dial of the DB28XS as simply purple does not do justice to the colour’s dynamic range. Depending on the lighting, angle, and texture, the colour shifts across a spectrum from violet to plum, aubergine to lavender, and mauve to amethyst, offering an almost iridescent quality. While blue titanium remains a signature colour for De Bethune, symbolizing the celestial and infinite, purple introduces warmth and richness associated with royalty.

Introduced into the collection in 2023, the DB28XS is De Bethune’s smallest model, featuring a diameter of 38.7mm and a remarkably slim profile of 7.4mm. The watch is exceptionally lightweight, constructed primarily from grade 5 titanium, including the mirror-polished case and the patented floating lugs—a feature that was particularly challenging to miniaturize.

The dial itself is a marvel of craftsmanship, characterized by a ‘random guilloché pattern’ that resembles undulating purple waves, adding a dynamic texture and relief to the surface. The dial is punctuated with hand-applied spherical gold pins, mimicking the appearance of stars twinkling in a purple sky or perhaps bubbles in water. This scene is framed by a raised, rounded, purple titanium chapter ring with silvery Arabic hour numerals. The bespoke, hand-polished, open-worked titanium hour and minute hands are designed to gracefully sweep over the chapter ring, with the minute hand slightly curved at the tip to navigate its contours.

The back of the DB28XS reveals the exquisite craftsmanship typical of De Bethune: the delta bridge of the manual-winding calibre DB2005 is crafted from mirror-polished titanium, featuring a purple titanium bar and a rounded bridge over the balance wheel. Below this, another purple titanium plate is decorated with a microlight pattern radiating in concentric grooves.

The movement is powered by self-regulating twin barrels that offer a robust 6-day power reserve and incorporates Flageollet’s patented blued titanium balance with white gold inserts, oscillating at 4Hz. It also features a balance spring with a flat terminal curve and a triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system, ensuring both precision and durability. The De Bethune DB28XS Purple Rain is equipped with an extra-supple alligator leather strap and an additional black canvas strap, both complemented by a purple grade 5 titanium buckle, enhancing its aesthetic appeal and wearability.