Enmeshing artistry and precision, Panerai sets itself apart in the sphere of complex horology with its unyielding commitment to innovation, technical excellence, and attention to detail. Panerai’s chronometers epitomize the brand’s persistent quest for horological mastery, harmonizing with its classic Italian spirit. The new Panerai Submersible S eTitanioTM PAM01403 perpetuates the brand’s remarkable chronicles of breaking boundaries and innovative collaborations, as seen in their association with the luxury mobility brand BRABUS.
The watch features a 47mm case, constructed from eTitanio, a 100% recycled titanium powder derived from pre-consumer scrap titanium alloy. It’s sculpted using Direct Metal Laser Sintering (DMLS) technology, with Panerai emerging as a pioneer in employing this method, which results in a lighter structure with a uniformly appealing finish that traditional methods can’t replicate.
Via an accurate 3D printing process, the watch case materializes seemingly ex nihilo, constructed by the addition of material rather than the subtraction of it. Layer upon layer of titanium powder is fused together through high-powered fiber optic laser sintering, evolving into a solid structure, and conjuring shape from nothing.
In this painstaking process of precise layering, each pass of the laser introduces an almost imperceptible but consistent addition, 30 microns (0.03 mm) thick. Notably, this technique enables the creation of a case band that is hollow on the inside, not compromising its strength or water-resistance. The DMLS titanium watch weighs only 115g, with the case alone weighing 23.6g. This DMLS case is about 30% lighter than a standard titanium case.
The soul of the Submersible S is Laboratorio di Idee’s high-end complication – the Skeleton Caliber. Exhibiting a stripped-down movement, the watch’s skeletal structure is achieved through an advanced horological procedure that eliminates superfluous material, highlighting the essential components of the movement.
The watch incorporates a micro-rotor for automatic winding, providing a power reserve of up to 3 days. A GMT function featuring a second bicolor hour hand and AM/PM indicator enhances the timepiece’s functionality and versatility. The DMLS titanium process, along with various innovative features of the watch such as a security device for the watch control mechanism, a rotating bezel system, a lever with a rotating roller, a polarized date, and a zero reset along with a stop-second movement, hold patents.
The small seconds at 9 o’clock feature a second reset for optimal time-setting. The patented polarized date, an original Panerai innovation, allows the numerals to be visible only when passing through the opening without concealing the mechanism. The skeletonized structure results in a notably lightweight watch, balancing function with style. Red detailing echoes the aesthetic inspirations derived from BRABUS’s design DNA.
The watch comes with two unique bracelets: a black calf strap combining two materials, and another black strap composed of 68% recycled PET derived from post-consumer waste. The PAM01403 is a boutique-exclusive model, limited to 177 pieces worldwide, paying homage to the founding year of BRABUS—1977.