H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Double Hairspring

This recent masterpiece by H. Moser & Cie marks their continued exploration in the skeleton watch category, following the debut of the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton in 2022. That same year, a tourbillon model graced the Streamliner collection, presented in an all-red gold finish with a Vantablack-coated dial. For 2024, H. Moser & Cie has unveiled a Tourbillon Skeleton for the Streamliner series, showcasing a remarkable blend of finesse, inventiveness, and the distinct Moser aesthetic.

The Tourbillon Skeleton is encased in a 40mm Streamliner case, recognized for its lugless, cushion-like shape. Its design, while loosely octagonal, features flowing lines that differentiate it from other watches with similar eight-sided configurations. The absence of traditional lugs gives the case a streamlined, compact feel, ensuring it sits comfortably on the wrist, further complemented by the bracelet’s design.

The side of the watch features a narrow cavity with a prominent brushed finish, adding depth and complexity to its appearance. The case is a showcase of meticulous craftsmanship, featuring radial brushing on the top, a wide polished bevel, and a transition back to a brushed finish on the cavity, with a mirror polish on the case back. The case’s total height, including a sapphire crystal, is 12.1mm, accentuating its robust presence.

The integrated bracelet is integral to the case design and deserves specific mention. The Streamliner bracelet, designed with narrow links closely set together, conforms gracefully to the wrist. This design ensures the bracelet fits snugly, adapting seamlessly to any wrist shape. Each link is finished with vertical brushing, matching the case’s brushed elements, while the sides of each link display a high polish that catches the light, adding a dynamic play between the polished and brushed surfaces as the bracelet moves.

The dial of the Tourbillon Skeleton is open-worked and harmonizes perfectly with the overall design of the case and bracelet. It features a monochrome palette with an anthracite finish on the main plate and bridges, highlighted by brushed surfaces and diamond-polished bevels. This design continues the Streamliner’s sleek aesthetic, enhanced by touches of red gold. Red gold-plated faceted baton indices are strategically placed above the dial’s three-dimensional structure, secured at one end only, with a double index at 12 o’clock and an intentionally absent index at 6 o’clock, making space for the one-minute flying tourbillon with its skeletonized bridge.

The central hour and minute hands are plated in red gold and incorporate Globolight inserts, providing a stark contrast against the grey background. Additionally, a fully skeletonized gold oscillating weight casts a delicate shadow from beneath, adding depth to the dial. A slightly domed sapphire crystal atop the dial introduces a subtle distortion that enriches the viewing experience, capturing the reflection of the lower part of the tourbillon’s cage at 6 o’clock.

While the movement powering the Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton was not originally designed as open-worked, H. Moser & Cie has masterfully modified an existing caliber to achieve this impressive result. The HMC 814 self-winding caliber, evolved from the HMC 804, now presented in a fully skeletonized version, supports a robust 72-hour power reserve and operates with a bidirectional pawl winding system. Running at 21,600 vibrations per hour, the HMC 814 consists of 167 components, including 28 jewels.