Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface
A model born from a combination of contemporary design and the wealth of Vacheron Constantin's watchmaking heritage. Share
The expression of an avant-garde aesthetic, the demand for mechanical sophistication and the desire to share creative expertise are at the heart of this Traditionnelle tourbillon retrograde date openface watch. The opening onto the architecture of the 2162 R31 movement—with its slate grey shade achieved by an NAC surface treatment—perfectly visible on both sides of the watch, highlights its mechanical power. The retrograde date display, complemented by a tourbillon, gains depth in a functional and contemporary style.
A retrograde date display is one in which the indicator does not complete a full turn of the dial, instead travelling along its entire measurement segment and then returning to its starting point to begin a new journey. This is generally an arc of a circle swept over by a dedicated hand. Most retrograde displays apply to cyclical time indications such as hours, minutes, seconds, days or dates.This mechanism requires great precision and rigorous discipline, particularly with regards to shock- and wear-resistance. At Vacheron Constantin, special retrograde displays first became popular in the 1920s, a period when the Maison distinguished itself by a style inspired by the aesthetic principles of Art Deco, conducive to letting the imagination roam free and expressing wildly extravagant touches.
Heir to the references 47245 and 47247 from the early Noughties, the Traditionnelle tourbillon date retrograde openface combines its retrograde display with a partially openworked dial, another signature of the Maison since the early 20th century. Openface dials highlight the technical nature and the meticulous and consistent attention to detail through an avant-garde aesthetic approach. Housed in an 18K pink gold case measuring 41 mm in diameter and only 11.07 mm thick, this new timepiece is fitted with a grey alligator strap secured by a pink gold folding clasp.
Stepped round case and lugs, a fluted caseback, a slim bezel, a railway minute-track, bi-facetted Dauphine hands and gold baton-type hour-markers: the characteristic attributes of the Traditionnelle collection, inherited from the Age of Enlightenment, are rooted in the Geneva’s grand High Watchmaking traditions. At Vacheron Constantin, however, respect for the past does not exclude creativity but in fact stimulates it. Resulting from three years of work and dialogue between artisans and master-watchmakers, this timepiece features alternating hand-finishes that endow it with remarkable depth.
The openworked sapphire dial, which also has a guilloché segment, reveals in-house Calibre 2162 R31, whose retrograde mechanism plate is highlighted by a slate grey surface treatment, achieved by a succession of thin galvanic layers. It is further enhanced by vertical hand-brushing on the upper part, its surface having been smoothed with a dedicated abrasive serving to create subtle light effects, as well as a hand-guilloché lower part. The retrograde date display, complemented by a tourbillon, thus gains added depth in an ultra-contemporary yet very watchmaking style. Stylised in the shape of a hollowed-out Maltese Cross, the tourbillon features a set of refined and complex finishes: the inside of its carriage is hand-bevelled, its cone-shaped transversal bar is hand-polished to give it a mirror-like gleam close to perfection.
Proudly bearing the Hallmark of Geneva, the Traditionnelle tourbillon retrograde date openface watch is driven by a 242-component in-house movement. Calibre 2162 R31 revisits the concept of High Watchmaking by adapting it to modern times with its NAC slate grey finish, 72-hour power reserve and decorated gold peripheral weight.
Beating at a rate of 18,000 vibrations per hour and measuring just 6.25 mm thick, Calibre 2162 R31 combines a retrograde date with a tourbillon. This unexpected match is embodied in a technical geometry of rare beauty with a retrograde mechanism visible to the naked eye through the openworked dial. The majestic tourbillon is set in a contemporary mainplate with a very high-quality watchmaking finish reflecting the grand Geneva tradition.
The expression of an avant-garde aesthetic, the demand for mechanical sophistication and the desire to share creative expertise are at the heart of this Traditionnelle tourbillon retrograde date openface watch. The opening onto the architecture of the 2162 R31 movement—with its slate grey shade achieved by an NAC surface treatment—perfectly visible on both sides of the watch, highlights its mechanical power. The latter is notably highlighted by hand-crafted finishes such as vertical hand-brushing on the upper part of the retrograde mechanism plate and guilloché work on the lower part. The retrograde date display, complemented by a tourbillon, takes on added depth in a functional and contemporary style.
